Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links.
The stunning Alocasia micholitziana ‘Frydek’ is one of the many varieties of Elephant Ear. Commonly known as the Green Velvet Alocasia, few plants match the foliage of the Alocasia genus!
Alocasia Frydek Care
It is important to be very consistent with the care of these plants, especially if you have a smaller plant. Once the plants are bigger, they will be a little bit more forgiving.
If you don’t have one of these beautiful plants and are wondering where to purchase one, I will tell you shortly! First, let’s get into the care.
These aroids will thrive in bright indirect light, and up to half a day of direct sun. Morning sun, especially in the winter time, is very beneficial.
Try to avoid direct afternoon sun which is harsher. Bright filtered light will work best.
If you have Northern or Eastern windows, it would be safe to have these plants within a couple feet of the window for best results.
You may want to set your plants back a little bit if you have Western or Southern windows that have too much direct sun.
Be sure to regularly turn your plants to allow for even, and better growth. The large leaves will all grow to face the window so if you want a nice, symmetrical plant, this is necessary.
TEMPERATURE and HUMIDITY
Alocasias come from the jungles of southeast Asia, so they like warm temperatures and high humidity if you can provide it.
Minimum temperatures of 60F (16C) or above are recommended. But staying 65F (18C) and above is better because these are warm growing species.
High humidity is very beneficial and I like to provide my Alocasias supplemental humidity in the winter time when our indoor air is very dry.
I run my absolute favorite humidifier constantly all winter. See below to find out which one it is and to read about its features:
Watering is absolutely critical for Alocasias so please read this section very carefully!
It is important to thoroughly soak these plants when you water and all excess water to escape the drainage holes. Discard the excess water.
Wait until the surface of the soil dries out (about the top inch or so) and then promptly water again.
These plants absolutely despise drying out completely so take care not to let that happen. Leaves these plant dry for too long, and they will go completely dormant.
SOIL and REPOTTING
A good well-draining soil will work fine for these plants. I do like to add some additional perlite in order to increase porosity and drainage.
My standard ratio for leafy tropical plants is 3 parts of an all-purpose potting mix and 1 part of perlite.
Your Alocasia Frydek likes to stay pretty pot-bound, so there is no rush to repot all the time.
I only repot my Alocasias when they have almost filled out their pots. Even then, when you do repot, I only go up one pot size.
Going up only one pot size is a good rule of thumb in general for houseplants. If you repot into a much bigger pot, you run the risk of the soil taking too long to dry out, and this can contribute to root rot.
I use the same fertilizer for all of my leafy tropicals indoors. It is a premium fertilizer and is absolutely amazing if you consistently use it.
The fertilizer is from Dyna Gro and it is a nutritionally completely, urea-free fertilizer that won’t burn your plant and provides amazing growth.
The only practical way for the home grower to propagate Alocasia Frydek is to divide the plant at the base whenever you repot.
The best time to repot and divide your plant is in the Spring when new growth is starting to occur.
ALOCASIA FRYDEK FOR SALE
Looking to purchase your own Alocasia Frydek? Check it out below on Amazon!
These are not the most carefree plants out there, so let me discuss the most common problems that you can have with your Alocasia Frydek and what causes them.
Alocasias indoors can be occasionally plagued with spider mites. Spider mites thrive in very dry air, so keep an eye on your plants.
If you regularly mist your plants, it will help to deter spider mites. Misting will not be effective in raising humidity, but it does deter spider mites.
If I have any plants that are prone to spider mites, I try and mist them in the wintertime to help deter pests. I also like to take plants into the shower and give them a good shower.
Check out my spider mite blog post for natural and organic ways to deal with spider mites, mealy bugs and other soft bodied pests.
Occasionally, your Alocasia will have its outer leaves start drooping. Don’t be surprised if this happens shortly after you bring your plant back from from purchasing it.
Moving these plants from a greenhouse setting to average home conditions will require a period of adjustment, so don’t be too alarmed if you get droopy leaves.
You may find that your Alocasia in winter will suffer a little bit and you may get droopy leaves then too from having lower light and cooler temperatures.
I like to place all my Alocasias outdoors in the summer and they make a miraculous comeback. The growth can be staggering!
Of course, do your best withe following proper watering and light conditions that I talked about above, and you should be OK!
LEAVES TURNING YELLOW
Yellow leaves in general can be caused by a variety of things including underwatering, overwatering, and keeping your plant too cold.
Check out my blog post on what causes yellow leaves in plants.
ALOCASIAS GOING DORMANT
If your Alocasia Frydek, or any Alocasia for that matter, is stressed, it may go completely dormant.
This can happen if you let your soil go dry for long periods of time and also if you keep your plant too cold. It will simply be forced into dormancy.
If this occurs, don’t despair completely! If all the leaves have yellowed, cut them all off. You will be left with just the base of the plant.
As long as the roots haven’t completely dried out, you plant will grow back with proper watering and light.
Do you have an Alocasia Frydek or any other kind of Alocasia? Check out my post on Alocasia amazonica and Alocasia Polly for further information on those plants.