Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links.
Cebu Blue is a newer variety of Pothos with stunning foliage that has hit the market, and it is just as easy to grow as the plain old Pothos that you are used to and see everywhere!
Let me show you how easy it to care for Epipremnum pinnatum ‘Cebu Blue.’ By the way, any plant in the genus Epipremnum is loosely called a Pothos. But for simplicity’s sake, let’s just go with Cebu Blue on this one.
Cebu Blue Care
I love this plant because of the ease of care and of course for those gorgeous silvery blue-green leaves. It thrives in average indoor conditions, grows quickly under good care, and is super easy to propagate.
Just like any Pothos, Cebu Blue is not too picky with light. That being said, it does thrive in bright indirect light.
For best growth and health, I do recommend placing your plant right in front of a window. And by right in front of a window, I mean 1-2 feet or so. The closer the better!
I have one Cebu Blue hanging under a sky light, which gets little to no direct sun.
I have also had them growing right in front of a North facing window (within a foot or so of the window).
Some direct sun is great as well. Eastern exposure windows that provide morning sun would work wonderfully (especially during winter time when pretty much all houseplants will benefit from direct sun indoors).
I would just stay away from more than half day’s worth of sun. (Save that prime sunny window real estate for plants that need lots of direct sun such as succulents!).
Given good light and watering practices, these plants can grow very quickly during the main growing season.
One of my plants grew a few feet one summer. Give them plenty of light and regular attention to watering, and they will take off at lightening speed!
Cebu Blue is pretty forgiving when it comes to watering, but if you are attentive, your plant will reward you with lush growth.
I recommend my “standard” watering practices for this plant.
Water thoroughly until all excess water escapes the drainage hole. Then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out before watering again.
That’s really it. Try and avoid letting your plant completely dry out. If you do (and trust me, I’ve done it), your entire plant will wilt and the lower leaves will start to yellow.
My general recommendation for fertilizing is that I fertilize dilutely with every watering during the main growing season.
During the winter, I will cut back or stop completely if my plant is not growing. When longer days in the spring spark new growth, I will resume.
Any all-purpose houseplant fertilizer will do, but I’m really fond of Dyna-Gro Grow.
It is an AMAZING fertilizer that I use on the majority of my houseplants and you will see fantastic growth if you use it religiously!
It is a very high quality, COMPLETE fertilizer that contains everything your plants need. It is also urea free and will not burn your plants. You can purchase it on Amazon and I use it with fantastic results.
Get yours now below!
You can probably get away with any good, commonly available potting mix, but let me tell you what I do with most of my leafy tropical plants.
For the vast majority of my leafy tropical plants, I like to use the following ratio:
3 parts of Miracle Gro Potting Mix
and 1 part of Perlite
HUMIDITY AND TEMPERATURE
Honestly, you don’t have to do anything special for this plant. If you are comfortable indoors, this plant will be comfortable too.
Average indoor temperatures and average indoor humidity is fine.
Just like the plain old Pothos that you see everywhere, this plant is pretty trouble-free. It doesn’t even really get any brown tips on the leaves unless you let it stay really dry for a while.
CEBU BLUE PROPAGATION
Cebu Blue propagates very easily and very readily.
Simply make cuttings that are a few inches long and you can easily root Cebu Blue in either soil or water.
I like to use water propagation because I can see the roots beginning to grow, and then I pot them up.
Simply snip a few cuttings, and make sure that at least one node, or two, are below the water line.
The node is where the leaf meets the stem. The roots will grow from this point.
You can see in the cutting above that there are roots growing at each node.
This one cutting must have been all under water for that to happen, but it illustrates the root growth at each node.
You can pot the cuttings up as soon as you see the root growth. Don’t wait too long otherwise the transition into soil may delay growth a bit, but it will still work.
If you want to skip water propagation, you can just place the cuttings with one or two nodes under the soil line. Keep the soil relatively moist and that’s it!
It helps to keep the cuttings being propagated in soil in higher humidity. You can either use a humidifier or or even place the rooting cuttings that are in soil into a clear plastic bag (out of direct sun so it doesn’t cook!).
Air out the bag every so often so you don’t have mold growing.
Once you see growth starting, you can be sure that your plant has rooted and you can place it in its normal growing location.
Or you can just do water propagation, and pot the cuttings up when you see signs of root growth. Both methods work.
That’s about it! If you want you read more about growth the “plain” old pothos, I wrote a blog post on how to grow pothos so don’t miss that!