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How to Grow Mandevilla in a Pot: 7 Easy Growing Tips

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Few other tropical plants provide a floral show quite like Mandevilla vines, and they are wonderful to grow in pots. If given good care, these easy-to-grow tropical vines will provide a non-stop show of flowers.

And you don’t have to live in warm climates to enjoy these plants. You can still enjoy Mandevilla flowers in colder climates by growing them in pots during the summer months.

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I’ve grown Mandevilla plants in pots for many years, so I will share my insights in this post. 

MANDEVILLA CARE: HOW TO GROW MANDEVILLA IN A POT

The native range for Mandevilla plants spans from southwestern United States, to Mexico and throughout tropical Central America and South America.

The Mandevilla genus contains 177 accepted species. It sometimes goes by the common name, Rocktrumpet, but the genus name Mandevilla is used much more often. 

This tender perennial can be grown in the ground year round in frost-free climates. If you live in a colder climate like I do, they’re best grown in pots. 

The gorgeous blooms that you will find in hybrid cultivars available for purchase are typically white, pink, yellow and red. The trumpet-shaped flowers appear non-stop with proper care.

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A pink Mandevilla on our old pergola, surrounded by a variety of tropicals.

1. LIGHT

In order to get the most abundant flowers, situate your potted Mandevilla in an area with full sun. If you live in an area with very strong sun, partial shade will be beneficial, but provide at least a half day of sun (morning sun is preferable).

If you live in cooler climates where the sun is not at strong, provide as many hours of direct sunlight as possible for best flowering. After all, no one buys these plants for just the foliage!

That being said, I live in Ohio and I’ve had great success with flowering with just half day sun, but they can take more sun where I live. If you don’t provide them any sun at all, you will only get foliage growth and few if any flowers. 

Part of the beauty of growing Mandevilla plants in pots is that you can move your plants to an appropriately sunny spot. 

2. SUPPORT

There are two types of Mandevilla plants. Most of us are used to the vining varieties, but there are also newer varieties that are “mounding”, so they stay tidy and don’t need a support. The mounding varieties typically stay under 18 inches tall or so.

For the vining varieties, you should provide an appropriate support structure. Many times, when you purchase them, the bigger plants already have a bamboo structure attached or some kind of small trellis so it’s easy to tell if it’s a vining variety. 

I have written a blog post showing various structures that I’ve used in my own garden to support these plants. Be sure not to miss my Mandevilla trellis ideas post for inspiration for your own garden.

I’ve used everything from bamboo stakes to clear fishing string to support these vines. 

With a little effort, you will create a beautiful focal point for your garden.

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This is an example from my own garden on how to support and display Mandevilla vines.

3. WATERING

Mandevilla plants can be prone to root rot if they are kept wet all the time. So be sure to allow your potting mix to dry out a bit before watering again.

I’d recommend feeling the soil with your finger and allowing the top couple inches to dry out out before watering thoroughly.

Never let your Mandevilla’s soil dry out completely. You will quickly get many yellow leaves forming if this happens.

On the flip side, these plants hate wet feet so never, ever allow your pot to sit in water (such as in a saucer below the plant) as this can invite root rot.

4. POTTING MIX

The potting mix that you use is very important for healthy growth of your plant. A well-draining soil is important.

A good mix to use is about 2 parts of an all-purpose potting mix and 1 part either of coarse sand or pea gravel. This will provide the sharp drainage that your plant needs for good growth, and also to help prevent root rot.

Always make sure your pot as drainage holes as good drainage is a must. 

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5. FERTILIZING

Mandevillas are very fast growers, so they will need regular fertilization for best results. I like to mix in Osmocote (link to Amazon) into the potting mix. This is a slow release fertilizer that will provide nutrients every time you water.

I also like to supplement with a water-soluble fertilizer like Miracle Gro Bloom Booster. It contains extra phosphorus to help with more flower bud production. 

If you provide your plant with plenty of sun, are attentive to watering, and regularly fertilize, you will have non-stop blooms on your potted Mandevilla throughout the entire growing season. 

6. TEMPERATURE

Mandevilla plants love warm temperatures, so resist the temptation to buy them until night-time minimum temperatures are consistently at least 45-50F or higher. 

They are said to be hardy in zones 9 and warmer. If you are in colder zones, they will not come back for you if kept in the ground outdoors, but you can of course still grow them in pots and treat them as annuals.

And near the end of this post, I will describe 2 ways to overwinter the plants if you’d like to attempt to save them for the following year.  

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A pink Mandevilla growing up our pergola.

7. PLANT HYGIENE

Because of the abundant blooms, deadheading the flowers is very important. The flowers tend to plaster themselves against the foliage and then become harder to remove and will eventually disfigure the leaves and potentially encourage disease and pests. 

As soon as the flowers have wilted, gently remove them so that you can keep the foliage in good condition.

In addition, remove any yellow leaves or diseased leaves if you see any. 

Please note that if you happen to prune or break the vines, the plants will exude a white, milky sap that can irritate your skin, so be sure to wash your hands promptly if your skin comes in contact with the sap.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

WHY IS MY MANDEVILLA NOT BLOOMING?

If your plant is not getting enough sun, this is the primary cause for no flowers. Ensure that your plant receives at least a few hours of direct sun for best results. 

HOW OFTEN TO WATER MANDEVILLA?

The frequency in which you water your plant will vary. You shouldn’t go by a strict schedule, but rather, water when your soil has dried out sufficiently.

I recommend waiting until the top inch has dried out for small pots (6 inches in diameter or less), and wait for the top 2 inches of soil to dry out for pots 8 inches in diameter and bigger.

WHY ARE MY MANDEVILLA LEAVES TURNING YELLOW

There are numerous reasons why Mandevilla leaves turn yellow, but the #1 reason that this happens is if you allow your potting mix to dry out completely. 

If your soil has gone completely dry, go ahead and give your plant a very thorough watering. The yellow leaves will not turn green again, but it will stop other leaves from yellowing. 

HOW DO YOU OVERWINTER A MANDEVILLA VINE?

If you live in a cold winter region, there are two ways that you can keep your plant over the winter months. In the first method, you’ll keep it growing. With the second method, you’ll allow the plant to go dormant. 

1. Before cold temperatures start in mid to late Fall, trim off about one-third of the plant, and up to about half of the plant or so. You’ll want to take some pest control measures as well, so give your plant a good spray with an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.

Make sure you spray the undersides of the leaves as well and coat the entire plant. You may also consider using a systemic insecticide as an additional precaution.

Next place your plant in the sunniest window that you have. Then in mid to late winter, give it another pruning and start fertilizing. This will give your plant a good head start for when you place it back outdoors.

Please note that after you move your plant indoors, it is normal for some of the leaves to fall off or turn yellow. Your plant is simply responding to the reduction in light. 

2. If you don’t want to keep your plant growing, you can attempt to let it go dormant and store it during the winter months. When temperatures outdoors start to dip below 45°-50°F (7°-10°C), go ahead and prune your Mandevilla vines back and leave only about 12 inches of vine. 

Place your pot in a cool, dark location (around 50°F/10°C or so). Even though you’re letting your plant go dormant, you will still want to water the soil periodically. If you keep the soil bone dry all winter, your plant will dry out and die. 

In late winter or early spring, place it in front of your sunniest window, and when temperatures are appropriate, you can move your plant outdoors.

Keep in mind that whenever you move any plant outdoors, you must place your plant in full shade FIRST for a period of a few days in order to acclimate your plant. Then at that point you can introduce some direct sun a little at a time. 

If you don’t do this and place your plant immediately into full sun, your plant will quickly burn. 

I hope you’ve enjoyed this post on how to grow Mandevilla in a pot. Have you tried growing this plant? Comment below. I’d love to hear!

Belinda

Wednesday 22nd of November 2023

Thank you for the information on Mandevilla. My red one is flowering profusely however the leaves at folding under I thought for a minute they were seeds on the plant. I live in Brisbane Australia in a sub tropical climate. The plant is in a pot. Any suggestions on why this is happening. Thanks

Raffaele

Tuesday 28th of November 2023

Hi Belinda! It's hard to say without more details. Is your soil drying out a lot perhaps?

Pat

Friday 3rd of November 2023

I have overwintered mine for 3 seasons. Each time, I have kept it growing. The foliage is beautiful but I’ve only had 2 blooms once I’ve moved it to our deck in spring. It gets sun most of the day. I have freshly potted but not regularly fertilized. Could that be the answer?

Raffaele

Monday 6th of November 2023

Hi Pat! Yes, try fertilizing for sure. It is certainly in good light from what you're describing so that's not the issue.

Pam Hibberson

Sunday 22nd of October 2023

Hi Raffaele I was given 2 red mandevilla unfortunately all my leaves are gone I’m left with sticks, Raffaele what are the chances of this beautiful plant coming back. I’m sorry I’m from Australia a place called wodonga vic

Raffaele

Monday 23rd of October 2023

Hi Pam! Is it warm year-round where you are? Do you know why all the leaves are gone? If they dry out too much, this can happen, but it can also happen as a result of other factors. If you can describe your environment and what you have observed, I can try and help. As long as the vines are not brittle, they can come back.

Dawn

Friday 15th of September 2023

Hi Raffaele, I’m curious what you do with your Mandevilla in the winter? I assume since you’re in Ohio you probably get snow, but your Mandevillas are large and vining up your pergola. Thank you! 😊

Raffaele

Monday 18th of September 2023

Hi Dawn! I personally treat them like annuals, but you can overwinter them! I have to pick and choose what I save since I grow so much :-)

Stee

Friday 1st of September 2023

Thanks for the postings on Mandevillas. Very informative. I want to try to winter this current specimen because it seems so healthy. I'm in New England, so that might be a challenge. My Mandevilla was growing very well. Foliage is dark green and very healthy. The older blooms would eventually wilt on the vine and I removed them before they dried on the foliage, just like you advised. I found that more than 6 hours of direct sunlight started to bleach out the flowers and the plant would start to wilt some in the hot afternoon sun, so I moved it to where it just had 6 hours of morning sun. It was thriving with the reduced sun. All of a sudden, the blooms started falling off the plant while they are still robust--they no longer wilt on the vine. The foliage is still dark green and healthy. I have never had a single yellow leaf. I have no insect damage. There are still lots of new buds forming. I'm careful with watering and there is no root rot. I noticed that the calyxes turn a bit brown right before the new bloom drops off. Like I said, the plant and the foliage have remained robust, dark and shiny. There is a slow, controlled release fertilizer in the potting mix. The roots are packed solid in the pot. I didn't repot it because it seemed to be doing so well. What could be causing the blooms to just fall off before they wilt? Should I give the plant more than 6 hours of sun even if it bleaches out the blooms? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Stee

Saturday 2nd of September 2023

@Raffaele, Thanks for your response! The small roots do form a thick mass in the upper part of the pot. Like you suggested, I stick my finger down about 2 inches to see if it is moist or dry. In the process, my finger pokes through the fine root mass. Do you think that probing is causing some damage? Even though the top part of the pot is dry, the bottom of the pot is usually damp when I stick my finger in the drainage holes. Yes, when I water, the water streams straight through the holes on the bottom at first. I wait a while, water it again and it retains more water. I made a mistake in my description. The calyx is fine. The white tubular bottom of the petals where it connects to the calyx is the spot where the petal turns brown and causes the bloom to fall off. The leaves don't wilt or show any signs of damage. They remain lush and shiny, dark green. That's why I don't think it is an insect problem. Could it still be thrips? Could it be a nitrogen overdose? The plant had lots of controlled released fertilizer mixed in the soil when I bought it. I have never added more fertilizer in the 2 months I have owned it. The reason I ask is because my wild day lilies had a very bad reaction when I fertilized them just once this summer. The stems wilted severely at first but after 2 heavy rains, they returned to normal. The foliage was not affected. Then I read that wild day lilies hate fertilizer and the stem wilt was caused by nitrogen in the fertilizer. In the direct sun, the mandevilla flowers usually wilt ...even when thoroughly watered. But the bloom wilting stops once the plant is in shade. I'll try more water today.

Raffaele

Friday 1st of September 2023

I'm wondering if it is super root bound, it just might be causing your bud blast. I would try and water really thoroughly to ensure you get a good soaking. When the roots are super crowded, it will actually become very difficult to "overwater" so you'll have to soak it more. From what you've described (and thank you for the detail), that potentially could be the issue.When you water, does the water seem to stream right through the drainage hole(s) very quickly? 6 hours of direct sun should be plenty.