Do you have a rubber plant that lost many of its lower leaves and you want to give it a new lease on life? Or maybe it has reached the ceiling and you don't know what to do with it?Â
If so, the air layering technique would be a perfect way to save and propagate your plant! It is easy and quick to do, and only requires a few simple steps.
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Table of Contents
Air Layering Technique
What is Air Layering?
Air layering is a propagation technique that is often used on older plants that have become woody and would be difficult to propagate otherwise.Â
This technique allows your cutting to actually form roots while it is still attached to the parent plant! This technique minimizes the shock that your cutting will endure while it is rooting, and maximizes your success!
Materials You Will Need
Sphagnum moss
A bowl with water
Scissors
A sharp knife
Garden twine or a thick string
Rooting Hormone
A toothpick (you'll want the sturdy round kind with pointy ends)
Clear plastic wrap
And of course, your plant! Below, I will show how I air layered this Ficus elastica (rubber plant) at Agnes Studio in Cleveland, Ohio.
How to Air Layer Your Rubber Plant
Prepare the Sphagnum Moss
Take a handful of sphagnum moss and soak it in warm water for at least a couple minutes. You will be using this as the medium that the roots will be growing into.
Make an Incision
Take your sharp knife and carefully cut about halfway into your stem. I don't think it really matters what direction you slant your cut.Â
Some people do it perpendicular to the stem, but I chose to do it on an angle as you can see from the picture below.Â
You can see some latex oozing from the cut and this is normal if you are air layering a rubber plant. If you get the latex on your hands, wash them with soap and water so you don't get skin irritation. You can use gloves if you'd like.
Another step that you can take is optional (but very beneficial) is to gently take your sharp knife and cut off maybe a half inch thin strip of the bark all the way around the perimeter of the stem in the location where you make the diagonal cut.
Prop Open the Incision
Next, you will prop the incision open with a toothpick and dust both the cut that you made and the band of stem that you debarked with rooting hormone.
I like to use the following rooting hormone, available on Amazon: Garden Safe Take Root Rooting Hormone. The rooting hormone will speed up how quickly roots will grow on your
Take the tip of a toothpick (you can also use a Q-tip or the edge of a knife), dip it in water, and then dip it in a rooting hormone. Then gently apply the rooting hormone to the incision that you've made (as well as to the band of bark that you removed around the perimeter of the stem.)
Then take the toothpick and gently insert the center of the toothpick horizontally into the incision so that it can hold open the cut while the roots are growing.Â
Then take your scissors and cut off both ends of the toothpick. You'll want to do this so that the points of the toothpick don't pierce holes into the plastic wrap once you wrap it in Step 5.
Wrap with Sphagnum Moss
Take your sphagnum moss that you have soaking in water and squeeze out all the excess moisture with your hands.Â
You want it damp, but not dripping wet otherwise your plant may rot. Then gently wrap the moss around where you cut the stem and gently squeeze it into a ball so that there is proper contact between the moss and the cut that you've made.
First I placed the moss behind the stem.
And then I wrapped the moss around the stem into a ball.
After you have a nice ball of moss surrounding your cut, take some clear plastic wrap and wrap it around the moss a few times.
Secure the Plastic Wrap
Finally, firmly tie both ends of the plastic wrap with garden twine. I like to tie it like I'm tying my shoe laces. This way, you can easily remove it when the cutting has rooted.
Wait!
This is the hardest part...waiting! It may be a few months before your cutting roots, so it'll require a little patience on your part.
Separate your Cutting and Pot It Up
After a few months, you should be able to see the roots growing through the moss inside of the plastic wrap.Â
At this point, you can cut the cutting off of the parent plant and pot it up. This actually has two benefits:
You've propagated a whole new plant!
The stem on your original plant should grow a new branch (or maybe even two) and your parent plant will get more full. See my blog post on pruning rubber plants to get a bushier plant.
So try it out! Have you tried air layering your rubber plant? Comment below!
My rubber tree lost most of it's leaves before we realized it had to move to a sunnier spot, and now it's very top heavy with large leaves. The bottom 2 feet has no leaves.
Is it possible to Air Layer it down low - will the bottom part grow new branches if there are no leaves there? I worry about creating the "bush" part of it up so high when the trunk is so thin. Thank you!
You're very welcome! You could try air layering the top portion where there are still leaves. After that roots, you can cut it off and plant those portions...and then you can cut the trunk down lower in order to encourage branching lower down. Does that make sense?
I would just trim it wherever you want the plant to start branching out. If you can leave some leaves on the plant, that would be preferred, but it should come back regardless!
Hi my rubber plant lost ALL it's leaves, and is just a stalk. I've been away for a few weeks and there appears to be a new baby plant growing at the base! How do I care for this? Will it have its own root? Do I need to separate it?
Hi Sarah, sorry to hear about your plant! I would not try to separate the little baby. It may be really tricky, and will fare much better if you just leave it. Assuming the leafless trunks are not too far gone and dried up, you may want to take this opportunity to prune them a bit. This can help the plant branch out more. Check out this blog post so you can see what I'm talking about, and good luck: https://www.ohiotropics.com/2021/09/06/how-to-make-a-rubber-plant-bushy/
Hi, thank you for the detailed instructions. I have a sub tropical plant (Elaeocarpus ganitrus/rudraksha/blue marble) planted from a seed from Kwai that is now touching the ceiling. It is extremely difficult to germinate from seeds. I was nervous to do anything about the plant touching the ceiling but now the leaves are falling off & most of the top is bare. Leaves have edge/tip & patchy brown burnt areas & fall off. Do you think it’s OK to do air layering at this point in the winter? Would I harm the parent plant?
Really appreciate your guidance.
Thanks
Aruni
Hi Aruni! I'm not familiar with that plant, but it's worth a try to air layer! It's a good technique to use when your plants have woody growth. Depending on where you live, you may want to wait until late winter to air layer.
Just discovered your site, and I am loving your clear, detailed posts--kudos! New plant mum here, a Canadian expat in Saudi. I have two questions (right now, ha!):
1. Are there any houseplants you know--or suspect--this method won't work on?
2. We are still in the northern hemisphere here, but in our area of Dhahran, KSA, the tree leaves seem to shed in Dec-Feb... which also seems to be when people sell and do a ton of planting outside, from petunias to frangipanis. It's ridiculously hot and humid from about Jun-Oct, and quite lovely from Nov-Apr. So my question is: WHAT would be the dormancy period here, or "winter" when it comes to the plants? Because while this is considered winter to us humans in Saudi, to the plants it looks like prime growing season. Any thoughts?
Hi Jenn! Those are great questions. You can do various methods of air layering on a lot of different plants. But the one I showed in this post is best suited for plants that have woody stems. As far as winter in your area...just pay attention to if your plants are slowing down at all. Maybe most of your plants may not have any type of rest period, depending on what you're growing. Are you asking mainly for fertilizing?
I tried this with a hoya that I received in the mail that had an injured limb. It's working! I see a root in the little spag moss pocket I made for it.
Hi! Can you air layer the main stem/trunk of a variegated rubber plant? Or can you notch (is it the same thing)? Mine lost all the leaves in the lower 2/3 (prob due to fungus; treating currently with copper fung.) so it looks like a tree now. It still puts out new growth from the top/apex.
Also, would you know why the new growth of the tineke is significantly (at least 2-4") smaller than the older leaves? And do you remove the leaves with fungal spots, even if I think it's currently under control?
Yes you can absolutely air layer a variegated rubber plant as well. It is no different in that respect. As far as the growth being smaller, you have to keep in mind that your home environment is providing less than ideal conditions compared to where the plant was growing before in a greenhouse...and by this, I primarily mean light and there are other factors too (fertilizing, etc.). I wrote a long blog post on rubber plants that you may want to check out as well! If you suspect the fungal issue is under control from your treatment, leave it.
Great information! I just received a long hoya vine which sustained an injury in shipping and I remembered your post! It's not completely broken off but has a clear split area. I only hope I added enough moss. Since it's a small vine, I went with a smaller portion of moss and plastic wrap.
All you would do is pre-moisten the moss before you use it, like I indicated in the blog post. Just be sure to squeeze excess water out. When it is all wrapped up with the plastic wrap, it will not dry out.
Thank you for this detailed post with pictures. I followed your instructions and was able to grow healthy, vigorous roots on a fiddle leaf fig cutting on my first try. Your content is very helpfu.
Thank you! Amaryllis care could be a whole separate post...but here are a couple main points. After flowering, the plant will grow lots of leaves. Give it as much SUN as possible. And place the plant outdoors if at all possible when it is warm outside. This is the period where the leaves should be allowed to grow luxuriantly in order to make the bulb nice and strong so it can flower. Then around October or so, completely stop the watering and let it dry out. Put it in a sheltered area where it will not receive any moisture and let all the leaves yellow and wilt. Once they are all yellow and withered, cut the leaves off and place the pot in a cool/dark place and let it rest for about 4-6 weeks or so. Then place it back next to a sunny window and start watering again. It should bloom shortly after that. This is all assuming that you don't have an evergreen Amaryllis though. Most of them are not evergreen.
Thank you for all the wonderful information!
My rubber tree lost most of it's leaves before we realized it had to move to a sunnier spot, and now it's very top heavy with large leaves. The bottom 2 feet has no leaves.
Is it possible to Air Layer it down low - will the bottom part grow new branches if there are no leaves there? I worry about creating the "bush" part of it up so high when the trunk is so thin. Thank you!
You're very welcome! You could try air layering the top portion where there are still leaves. After that roots, you can cut it off and plant those portions...and then you can cut the trunk down lower in order to encourage branching lower down. Does that make sense?
@Raffaele,
Thank you for your reply!
I think I understand... if I try air layering say just above the bottom 2 leaves, then when that is ready, remove it and plant the top in another pot.
Then what is left with the trunk and 2 leaves... do I just cut that low, or try air layering again low down?
Have I got that right?
I'm so grateful for your help!
I would just trim it wherever you want the plant to start branching out. If you can leave some leaves on the plant, that would be preferred, but it should come back regardless!
Hi my rubber plant lost ALL it's leaves, and is just a stalk. I've been away for a few weeks and there appears to be a new baby plant growing at the base! How do I care for this? Will it have its own root? Do I need to separate it?
Hi Sarah, sorry to hear about your plant! I would not try to separate the little baby. It may be really tricky, and will fare much better if you just leave it. Assuming the leafless trunks are not too far gone and dried up, you may want to take this opportunity to prune them a bit. This can help the plant branch out more. Check out this blog post so you can see what I'm talking about, and good luck: https://www.ohiotropics.com/2021/09/06/how-to-make-a-rubber-plant-bushy/
Hi, thank you for the detailed instructions. I have a sub tropical plant (Elaeocarpus ganitrus/rudraksha/blue marble) planted from a seed from Kwai that is now touching the ceiling. It is extremely difficult to germinate from seeds. I was nervous to do anything about the plant touching the ceiling but now the leaves are falling off & most of the top is bare. Leaves have edge/tip & patchy brown burnt areas & fall off. Do you think it’s OK to do air layering at this point in the winter? Would I harm the parent plant?
Really appreciate your guidance.
Thanks
Aruni
Hi Aruni! I'm not familiar with that plant, but it's worth a try to air layer! It's a good technique to use when your plants have woody growth. Depending on where you live, you may want to wait until late winter to air layer.
This was a great post, very well explained. I wanted to know if there is any alternative to the moss. Would normal soil work?
Glad you enjoyed the post! It's traditionally been done with sphagnum only. I've never tried it with soil so I can't really comment on it.
I have a huge Monstera which is an old mature plant, it is growing in all directions. can I share a picture to take your advice?
Sure, you can email me using the contact form on my website. When I respond, you can reply and attach photos.
Just discovered your site, and I am loving your clear, detailed posts--kudos! New plant mum here, a Canadian expat in Saudi. I have two questions (right now, ha!):
1. Are there any houseplants you know--or suspect--this method won't work on?
2. We are still in the northern hemisphere here, but in our area of Dhahran, KSA, the tree leaves seem to shed in Dec-Feb... which also seems to be when people sell and do a ton of planting outside, from petunias to frangipanis. It's ridiculously hot and humid from about Jun-Oct, and quite lovely from Nov-Apr. So my question is: WHAT would be the dormancy period here, or "winter" when it comes to the plants? Because while this is considered winter to us humans in Saudi, to the plants it looks like prime growing season. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Hi Jenn! Those are great questions. You can do various methods of air layering on a lot of different plants. But the one I showed in this post is best suited for plants that have woody stems. As far as winter in your area...just pay attention to if your plants are slowing down at all. Maybe most of your plants may not have any type of rest period, depending on what you're growing. Are you asking mainly for fertilizing?
I tried this with a hoya that I received in the mail that had an injured limb. It's working! I see a root in the little spag moss pocket I made for it.
That's great Kyra! 🙂
Hi! Can you air layer the main stem/trunk of a variegated rubber plant? Or can you notch (is it the same thing)? Mine lost all the leaves in the lower 2/3 (prob due to fungus; treating currently with copper fung.) so it looks like a tree now. It still puts out new growth from the top/apex.
Also, would you know why the new growth of the tineke is significantly (at least 2-4") smaller than the older leaves? And do you remove the leaves with fungal spots, even if I think it's currently under control?
Thanks!
Yes you can absolutely air layer a variegated rubber plant as well. It is no different in that respect. As far as the growth being smaller, you have to keep in mind that your home environment is providing less than ideal conditions compared to where the plant was growing before in a greenhouse...and by this, I primarily mean light and there are other factors too (fertilizing, etc.). I wrote a long blog post on rubber plants that you may want to check out as well! If you suspect the fungal issue is under control from your treatment, leave it.
Great information! I just received a long hoya vine which sustained an injury in shipping and I remembered your post! It's not completely broken off but has a clear split area. I only hope I added enough moss. Since it's a small vine, I went with a smaller portion of moss and plastic wrap.
Good luck! 🙂
Do you need to water the moss while it’s taking root or dies the parent plant provide enough moisture?
All you would do is pre-moisten the moss before you use it, like I indicated in the blog post. Just be sure to squeeze excess water out. When it is all wrapped up with the plastic wrap, it will not dry out.
Fantastic-thanks for sharing! I can't wait to try this
You're welcome!
Can I do this with a dracena?
Yes, you absolutely can!
Thank you for this detailed post with pictures. I followed your instructions and was able to grow healthy, vigorous roots on a fiddle leaf fig cutting on my first try. Your content is very helpfu.
You're welcome! I'm happy you had success with your fiddle leaf fig!
Can I do this with a money tree? Can I do this with fiddle leaf trees?
Absolutely!
Oh this is great information. I've watched Mike Kincaid do this with rhododendron on YouTube but I never thought of doing it on houseplants! Thanks
Try it out! It's fun and satisfying!
This is one of the bests posts yet! I like the pictures, the clear directions, and the ordered steps. Nice job. Now I need an appropriate plant!
Hey, what should I do to get Amaryllis bulbs that are flowering this year to produce next year?
Thanks!
Thank you! Amaryllis care could be a whole separate post...but here are a couple main points. After flowering, the plant will grow lots of leaves. Give it as much SUN as possible. And place the plant outdoors if at all possible when it is warm outside. This is the period where the leaves should be allowed to grow luxuriantly in order to make the bulb nice and strong so it can flower. Then around October or so, completely stop the watering and let it dry out. Put it in a sheltered area where it will not receive any moisture and let all the leaves yellow and wilt. Once they are all yellow and withered, cut the leaves off and place the pot in a cool/dark place and let it rest for about 4-6 weeks or so. Then place it back next to a sunny window and start watering again. It should bloom shortly after that. This is all assuming that you don't have an evergreen Amaryllis though. Most of them are not evergreen.